Orvieto: Umbria’s Gothic Jewel

I have two important things to tell you about Orvieto. First, it’s one of my favorite Italian getaway spots. This city is more than a hilltown, more than a wine destination. Orvieto floats above a green Umbrian valley, perched atop a tufa outcropping that looks as though it came straight out of Tolkien’s Middle Earth. Once you’re in Orvieto, though, you’ll realize that you’ve arrived in a place that is at once mystical and historic, set away from the bustle of Rome and Florence, but very much a part of Italy’s wine history and culture.

Second, it rains in Orvieto. Often, in fact. Since walking is the best way to get around, you need to know about the rain. You also need to know that rain shouldn’t keep you away from Orvieto’s cathedral, cuisine, or wine.

Orvieto makes a great daytrip or weekend stopover, whether you’re arriving from Rome or Florence. Orvieto’s an easy 1½-hour train ride from either city. If you’re traveling by car, you’ll be able to strike out toward the wineries in the countryside. However, you’ll need to park your car at the train station while you sightsee in town. It’s well worth doing; just lock everything in the trunk (even stray maps and pencils), pay the parking lot attendant and take the bus or funicular up to the town.

Once you arrive in Orvieto, you’ll see why having a car is a handicap.