Cabernet Sauvignon – Old Vines in Washington State

Zillah, Washington State, 1994. I was completely disoriented. It was hot. I was standing in a dry, semi – desert terrain, but looking west, I saw glacier capped Mt. Rainier.

The roads weren’t paved, the wineries badly marked. Tasting rooms consisted of folding tables in the corners of barrel rooms, or in the family rec room with 1970’s shag carpeting. Often, I had to ring an outdoor bell to bring someone in from the fields to pour tastes.

As I sent the clapper swinging in another winery, I thought to myself “You’re not in Napa anymore, Toto.”

But the wines were good. In some cases, very good. And they’ve only gotten better.

At that time, Washington was a confused adolescent in the wine world, unsure if it’s identity. It’s still a little confused, but it’s strengths are becoming clearer. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Riesling are emerging as leaders.

That first trip was my chance to explore and start making up my own mind. A habitual red wine drinker, I leaned towards Cabernet Sauvignon, and I was not disappointed. My research uncovered a winery just north of Zillah called Portteus, and I was eager to explore.

The scenery was new to me. As I drove east from Seattle, I crossed the Cascade Mountains, and then dropped down to an arid valley. Up and over another pass, and I descended into the Yakima area. Less than two hours from home, I was in completely different terrain.